[dan ze'l-ik-man]

Breathe

Posted on 23. May, 2010 by Dan Zelikman in Surfer

(I’m not sure what this post is about really. It might be a journal entry that turned into a blog update I suppose. Regardless, I wrote it after a heavier surf session than I was used too. I surfed a break that attracts a large crowd of high quality surfers, on a day that brought in waves that were bigger than I was used too. It took my breath away.)

It’s bigger out here tonight. All the good surfers that make you wish you were better are out, don’t get in there way. You ran out of work to beat the traffic and then continued running to the beach, don’t waste the effort. Breathe.

Paddling out felt like a blur. I just kept watching these bomb sets roll in again and again. I watched these amazing surfers ride these giant waves to perfection. No hesitation, just reaction. Once I found a place in the lineup I realized the crowd was big, bigger than usual. I look around and remind myself to breathe.

First set rolls in and it’s big. Let it pass. Look around. Watch what the wave does. Watch what the forty or so surfers do. Get in position. Find your spot. Breathe.

Second set rolls in, it’s bigger. Don’t rush it, a lot of people have been out here waiting longer than you. Don’t worry about the Sun setting, you have plenty of time to catch your wave. Focus on your position. The wind picks up. Stop shivering, you live in Hawaii. Breathe.

A few more sets roll in, they’re not as big so you paddle for them. Nine other surfers have a similar idea. You don’t catch anything except for maybe a little spray to the face. Turn around and get back in position. You paddle for a few others but you’re out of position again. This is sloppy, get back to your spot. Wait for your wave, stop thinking so much. Breathe.

Forty-five minutes have passed and no rides. There were opportunities but they were missed. Some because of hesitation, others because of fear. I’m starting to wonder if I belong at this break or not. Stop wondering and surf.

There’s an opening, swell coming my way. It’s overhead for sure but I can’t tell by how much. Go. Breathe, but go. Look to your left, nobody, this is your wave. Look to the right, three surfers thinking the same thing. Dig. Paddle harder. Pop up, and ride.

Quiet. All I can hear is my own breathing. This wave is perfect, the ride feels like forever. I can’t stop smiling, so I remind myself to breathe…

Tags: Hawaii, surfing