So as you can see we looked more like ninjas than surfers, and the giant ten foot classic longboards only added to the hilarity of the moment. The one thing that wasn’t funny however, were the waves. No, they were pretty much perfect. Perfect, empty, and completely glass.

I hadn’t surfed in just under a month, so even though my heart was racing from the fear of how cold that water was going to be, I jumped right in and started paddling. The funny thing is that unlike in Hawaii, this was a beach break, didn’t have any reef that would cut up my feet, plus it was shallow enough to walk in. Tyler decided to point all these things out as I was fifteen feet ahead of him paddling, fighting for a breath, and looking ridiculous in my Ninja Gaiden outfit. “Umm… dude, you know you can walk it right?” I didn’t care, I was stoked to be out there.

The strange thing is that it’s not as cold as you would think. I mean, it’s cold, but I think I could bear it if I knew it meant empty clean sets whenever I wanted. I wasn’t used to it so I was kind of paddling around and watching Tyler rip set after set, but regardless it was good fun. I was stoked to be surfing in a beach in my home state, in a different ocean, halfway across the world, in pretty crazy weather conditions. As fun as it was, I think I’ll stick with my Hawaii breaks for now. Don’t worry, it has nothing to do with the fact that the water and air temperature is forty degrees warmer.

Neil was able to grab some great shots from the shore, be sure to check out more here.