(I’m not sure what this post is about really. It might be a journal entry that turned into a blog update I suppose. Regardless, I wrote it after a heavier surf session than I was used too. I surfed a break that attracts a large crowd of high quality surfers, on a day that brought in waves that were bigger than I was used too. It took my breath away.)

It’s bigger out here tonight. All the good surfers that make you wish you were better are out, don’t get in there way. You ran out of work to beat the traffic and then continued running to the beach, don’t waste the effort. Breathe.

Paddling out felt like a blur. I just kept watching these bomb sets roll in again and again. I watched these amazing surfers ride these giant waves to perfection. No hesitation, just reaction. Once I found a place in the lineup I realized the crowd was big, bigger than usual. I look around and remind myself to breathe.

First set rolls in and it’s big. Let it pass. Look around. Watch what the wave does. Watch what the forty or so surfers do. Get in position. Find your spot. Breathe.

Second set rolls in, it’s bigger. Don’t rush it, a lot of people have been out here waiting longer than you. Don’t worry about the Sun setting, you have plenty of time to catch your wave. Focus on your position. The wind picks up. Stop shivering, you live in Hawaii. Breathe.

A few more sets roll in, they’re not as big so you paddle for them. Nine other surfers have a similar idea. You don’t catch anything except for maybe a little spray to the face. Turn around and get back in position. You paddle for a few others but you’re out of position again. This is sloppy, get back to your spot. Wait for your wave, stop thinking so much. Breathe.

Forty-five minutes have passed and no rides. There were opportunities but they were missed. Some because of hesitation, others because of fear. I’m starting to wonder if I belong at this break or not. Stop wondering and surf.

There’s an opening, swell coming my way. It’s overhead for sure but I can’t tell by how much. Go. Breathe, but go. Look to your left, nobody, this is your wave. Look to the right, three surfers thinking the same thing. Dig. Paddle harder. Pop up, and ride.

Quiet. All I can hear is my own breathing. This wave is perfect, the ride feels like forever. I can’t stop smiling, so I remind myself to breathe…

One day maybe, but unfortunately I haven’t made a strong enough commitment to pursue climbing in Hawaii (other than the black rocks at Waimea) but that’s something I’m planning on changing really soon.

On this one day we got a chance to climb with some sizable swell to our backs. Mark and Suzi were visiting us from Colorado and although Mark wanted to surf, Suzi wanted Mark to live. Being that the three of us were all climbing guides in the Adirondacks, some bouldering at Waimea turned out to be a great (and safe) alternative.
Pipeline in all its glory, firing barrel after wicked barrel.

Waimea wasn’t so glorious that day, but it was big. So big that most of the beach was closed to the public and almost nobody was in the water. Except of course for the crazies that enjoy getting pounded into the sand by some 20+ foot beach break. Somehow, you can’t help but appreciate it.

Mark OPT trying to get a better look at the waves (while simultaneously trying to show off his bouldering skills).

Things can get pretty competitive when you pin ex-teammates back together again.

Some others joined in the fun, and some climbed too high and needed our help to get down.

We had a blast with Mark and Suzi… wish you were still, here.

Going.

Going.

Still going.

Gone.

Honeymooning.

Stoked.

Some surf, n’ sunsets.

5:00 am. We got up and packed. Kim was barely awake when we jumped into the car. I was too excited to notice if I was tired or not. The day before was big, bigger than it had been in years, but still not big enough. Some people thought that the event should have went off the day before, but they decided to wait one more day. I was happy that they did.

We picked up Neal who was packed to the brim with camera equipment and food, and we headed out. Although we agreed to drive up either way, I was really hoping for the chance to see one of the most unique and memorable sporting competitions to go live. We lucked out.
We parked 3 miles away from Waimea, grabbed our coolers and some bags, and started walking.
Some folks rode bikes.
It was crowded when we got there, at 5:45am. It stayed crowded until about 5:45pm.
It was crowded in the water too. At this point, none of the Eddie competitors were out there yet. Nuts.
Some guys caught some waves. I caught some photos.
A rare single surfer on a good size wave.
Some of these waves were not meant to be ridden.
A room with a view.
A view.
Our view of Wiamea Beach Park below. We were up on the ridge. The mezzanine section, if you will.
More waves.

Dicey closeout potential.
More crowds.
And some more.
Down at base camp.
I wonder if he’s any good? (That’s Greg Long, he ended up catching the event winning wave).
Neal watching another bomb go off.
Another bomb going off.
More rides.

Kelly Slater riding in a 98 point wave! Nearly a perfect ride, all the way into shore.

@NealKido got some video of the memorable ride.

Some more footage captured by our friends over at the Surfboard Shack.

Amazing experience… mahalo.

The film awakens your travel bug instantly, and I found myself dreaming of a few destinations I’ve had on the brain for years. The film endures a combination of gorgeous backdrop, glassy empty sets, and the typical perfect complimentary soundtrack you can expect from a Taylor Steele movie.

Although I enjoyed the film a lot and recommend it to anyone who is a lover of surfing or travel, the film itself was not the highlight of my night. We were at a premier party with the type of spread you would expect, drinks, pupus, and few Lost cast members. You know, the uze! What I didn’t expect to see was the star of the film himself, Rob Machado, giving an interview a few feet away from me as I sipped on a beer. Naturally, I had to meet him.

Because of the intimate setting of the lounge, Kim and I were able to meet and chat with Rob briefly. His relaxed personality on film is fully transparent as he was extremely patient and engaging with us as we discussed traveling, surfing, and his movie, “The Drifter.” He later mentioned the difficult balance of taking on such a personal role with video cameras and a production crew surrounding him at all times. I think he pulled it off well. Then, I ruined the moment by awkwardly asking him for a photo. But Rob said yes anyway. Sweet.

If you are unable to see the full screen by clicking the four corner arrows below, please use the following link to watch “South Shore Sundays.”

South Shore Sundays on Vimeo

On some computers there is a bit of a delay once you hit the play button so thanks for your patience in advance!

]]> http://www.danzelikman.com/2009/05/south-shore-sundays/feed/ 14 http://www.danzelikman.com/2009/02/njsurf09/ http://www.danzelikman.com/2009/02/njsurf09/#comments Mon, 09 Feb 2009 09:30:59 +0000 Dan Zelikman http://danzelikman.wordpress.com/?p=252 Last catch up post I promise, the rest will be from Hawaii. Surfing as much as I do in Hawaii I had to mention how my crazy friends Tyler and Neil dragged me out to the beach in New Jersey to go surfing while the snow flurries were still falling. It put in perspective how fortunate I am to be able to wake up, walk ten minutes, and surf in seventy-five degree water everyday. Whereas these guys have to pack up the car, drive an hour down the Garden State Parkway, put on about fifteen pounds of rubber, and jump into thirty-nine degree water. All this in twenty-nine degree weather (are you getting cold yet?). The suits felt and looked absurd but they kept me warm, no matter how ridiculous I looked. It was definitely different because in Hawaii the only reason I wear a rash guard is to prevent my back from getting burned from four hours in the sun and my chest from getting, well, a rash. Hence the name.

So as you can see we looked more like ninjas than surfers, and the giant ten foot classic longboards only added to the hilarity of the moment. The one thing that wasn’t funny however, were the waves. No, they were pretty much perfect. Perfect, empty, and completely glass.

I hadn’t surfed in just under a month, so even though my heart was racing from the fear of how cold that water was going to be, I jumped right in and started paddling. The funny thing is that unlike in Hawaii, this was a beach break, didn’t have any reef that would cut up my feet, plus it was shallow enough to walk in. Tyler decided to point all these things out as I was fifteen feet ahead of him paddling, fighting for a breath, and looking ridiculous in my Ninja Gaiden outfit. “Umm… dude, you know you can walk it right?” I didn’t care, I was stoked to be out there.

The strange thing is that it’s not as cold as you would think. I mean, it’s cold, but I think I could bear it if I knew it meant empty clean sets whenever I wanted. I wasn’t used to it so I was kind of paddling around and watching Tyler rip set after set, but regardless it was good fun. I was stoked to be surfing in a beach in my home state, in a different ocean, halfway across the world, in pretty crazy weather conditions. As fun as it was, I think I’ll stick with my Hawaii breaks for now. Don’t worry, it has nothing to do with the fact that the water and air temperature is forty degrees warmer.

Neil was able to grab some great shots from the shore, be sure to check out more here.

The rest of the weekend was made up of a few surf sessions at Diamond Head and watching the Giants pummel the Redskins. The north swell was huge so we enjoyed the shoulder and head high waves at the windward side. As for the North Shore, my buddy Jack and I decided to check out the rainy, stormy, and windy day at the Triple Crown. Despite the chilling 75 degree temperature (ha) and the wet conditions it was good fun. The waves were peaking at around 10ft (Hawaiian) but because of the wind there were a lot of close outs. We caught some great sets from a few Brazilian surfers going against a few of our own locals.

I haven’t been to a major tournament before so it was fun just being up there during all the madness. It’s cool being around so many people stoked on surfing at the same time. From 70 something year old women to 4 year old kids, everyone was cheering on the surfers while getting soaked in the storm. Although we had to catch the end via the web, on Wednesday December 4th, CJ Hobgood took the crown, congrats!